17. COTTON PRODUCTION AND FIBRE QUALITY NEEDS FOR THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY.

17.1 Cotton is an agricultural crop and is in a class by itself. It has to undergo a mechanical process before it becomes useable and acquires value. The second point worth remembering at planning stage is that cotton can ONLY BE SPUN and therefore, the requirements of the spinner regarding quantity and quality have got to be kept in view. Same applies to the export market.

17.2 The textile industry of today is under two different pressures. Firstly, the sophistication of the machinery and secondly, the composition of raw materials used because of the increasing use of man-made fibres. Both these aspects will have to be considered for a correct understanding of the quantity and quality of cotton required by the industry. It is, however, easy to be a historian and describe the past events, but it is very difficult to be a crystal gazer and predict the future. But the shadow of the coming events is fairly clear.

17.3 The quality of cotton apparel has always been appreciated because of its absorbency., its breathability and its unique feeling against the skin. Cotton's dominance was not to last for long and it soon found it-self pitched against man-made fibres. However, it has staged a come back mainly due to the demands of fashion.

17.4 Cotton textile machinery is also changing rapidly. New and not so new spinning techniques like O.E., friction and air-jet spinning have become popular. Each of the these yarn forming systems require cotton having different characteristics. Weaving or fabric forming systems have also undergone changes and advancements,, New systems require better quality as well as specific types of yarn. Fashion has its own demands which have to be met.

17.5 Automation in the textile industry is rapidly gaining ground, According to Gilhaus (1984), "it is clear that for reason of profitability, automation is bound to increase still further". Cotton breeders will have to consider the above carefully for better planning.

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